10,000 BPM - Meeting Charlie Trotter

It's 1:01.  Chef isn't here.  Something is wrong.  He is a perfectionist, to the same extent that Thomas Keller is considered.  There is noise downstairs.  The noise gets louder as the source nears.  A man comes up the stairs and hurries to the front of the room, still buttoning his coat.  The great chef, Charlie Trotter, is now in attendance.

"I thought this thing was next week.  I just wanted to buy some books!"  It turns out he is an avid reader.  Explains he's the type to walk in the store with the intent of buying one or two books, but always leaves with a bundle valued over $400.  Very cool.

The store manager quickly takes mic control to introduce him.  Charlie promptly takes control of her note cards, and of the mic.  "I've been coming here for over 10 years and you need note cards to talk about me?"  She nervously begins the introduction a second time.  Chef pointing out their brief college relationship doesn't help her nerves.  Eventually, it's time to cook.

Chef Trotter preparing salmon tartare

Class begins with Chef asking what the menu is.  Salmon tartare and shrimp maki- easy.  Announces that he plans to wing it.  He starts by masterfully preparing the fresh salmon picked up from Trotters To Go.  Is it really that easy?  Can a mere mortal do it that quickly?  I must investigate further.

Tartare is done, but not finished.  It's time for the most difficult part of cooking, tasting.  "If we don't gain at least 10 pounds as chefs in the kitchen something is wrong."  Knife skills, cooking, presentation- they're all easy.  Tasting, and honing the palate is the most difficult part.

"This needs acid.  Let's add lemon."  This had not occurred to the staff and people before him.  The simple addition made the proven recipe much better.  There's a reason why he's the boss.

He finishes the dish by placing the tartare on a crostini and adding a la minute barely-whipped cream with freshly grated horseradish root.  For a canapé- for anything- it tastes really good.

Next he constructs the "$50 restaurant version."  For that special occasion, to impress the boss, here is the real way to do it.  He takes the salmon and presses it in a bowl mold.  Turns it quickly on a plate to create a perfect dome.  Takes the crostini and gives a rough dice- creating luxurious breadcrumbs.  He tops the dome with them and the horseradish cream.  Drizzle of olive oil.  Done.  But before the next dish, he steps out in front.

Salmon Tartare with Horseradish Cream on Crostini

There is a program, that runs every year, where kids pile up in a school bus and visit Charlie Trotter's restaurant.  They essentially get the same meal any other diner would, for almost free.  The price is that every student has to ask two questions.  Charlie goes around the table as many times as it takes to get everyone to pay up.

Chef locks his sights on me.  Feels like I'm back in high school and a cute girl is looking my way- there has to be someone important behind me.  "What is your question?"  What is my question?  What kind of question is that?  Not only do I have a terrible tendency to get star struck, but I'm a consultant.  Consultants just can't answer questions.  We need freaking scope.  How can you answer a question without scope?

Suddenly, I'm struck by a familiar bad taste in my mouth.  The taste of bitter melon.  I explain my venture from the night before and ask him how to prepare the beast in a tasteful manner.

Charlie explaining the proper way to prepare bitter melon

"First of all you need to cut the bitter melon paper thin."  Paper thin?  I had made a conscious effort to cut it thick- show some personality.  Then it turns out it's important to cook it in a sweet liquid, and ideally for a long amount of time.  Oil doesn't count as a sweet liquid.  But I honestly tried to incorporate sweetness into the dish.  There's proof!  Maybe I'll revisit the gourd at a later date.

Then, my fear becomes a reality.  An idiot gets an opportunity to ask a question.  Honestly, I'm considering offering my services to monitor Q&A sessions.  Some people just don't get it.  They need to be taken out before their mouth opens.

"I just read this interesting book about eating specifically to match my blood type.  I'm blood type O+ and I'm supposed to eat lots of livers.  What do you recommend?"  How dare this vile woman throw such filth at this celestial being.  First of all, the hippie book she read is probably the only of its kind.  And if that book is the number one authority on the issue, and says what to do, why ask the question to a non-expert?

Chef is not phased a bit.  He has actually, or at least presents the image very well that he has, heard of the topic.  And while he doesn't have a quality answer for her this session, he promises that he will at his next appearance.  Damn he's good.

He returns behind the table to make his second dish, shrimp maki with roasted red pepper aioli.  Aioli is technically garlic mayonnaise.  Over the years the definition has loosened to the point of being 'flavored mayonnaise.'

The sushi rice has already been prepared so he goes over the steps of placing it on top of the nori, then a row of shrimp, aioli, then rolling it out with a bamboo mat.  Rolling sushi is another skill that is much more difficult than it appears.

Shrimp Maki with Roasted Red Pepper Aioli

Another fine bite of food.  For me it was good.  Since I'm not a big aioli fan, especially with maki, I can still objectively say it's a quality dish that most people would enjoy.  It's also prepared much better than I could, so who am I to criticize?

The session comes to a close but Chef is a sociable guy.  I have a chance to approach greatness.  I take it.  "Hey it's the first question of the day!"  Oh my god.  He remembers me.  But now is the moment where one of two things can happen- I clam up and stare with my heart trying to break out of my chest or I say how I really feel at a million words a minute.

I'm happy to say, that my mouth opens.

BFFs

Update on Thursday, December 18, 2008 at 10:48PM by Stash

Here is the "$50 Restaurant" version of the Salmon Tartare

Comments

[Aashay Desai]

So how did you finally end up confessing your love for him? Olo, /highfive for the bittermelon question.

[Stash]

It was pretty awesome. I've got some new bitter melon dishes figured out so be ready for that series to go one more chapter.

[Nutrition to Kitchen]

Jealous. I actually have his "Charlie Trotter's Desserts" book but have only made a part of one of his desserts. So cool you met him!

[Boxxx]

I was gonna say Stash...I sense a 3rd installment in the bitter melon series....looking forward to that.

[Chef E]

I have had the honor of meeting him three times over the course of my culinary career, and we finally ate at his place...he presented me with several of his cookbooks...we love his food and career as you do...