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Tuesday
Sep302008

Custom House

Custom House is one of my new favorite restaurants in Chicago.  From the the first steps in the door to belt removal- it's great.

Easily the warmest and most professional greeting I've had, I felt like a customer returning for the 100th time.  The restaurant maintains a very calm and serene ambience, which is very difficult since diners have window access to the kitchen.  How many chefs do you know keep their whites white and maintain a PG tongue?  Bottom line on ambience- great place to bring a date.

The single page [seasonal] menu is very well organized by course, protein, and cooking method.  It is something I have not seen before but am an instant fan of.  There are specials and the wait staff is very knowledgeable in wine.  While at times I felt like my waiter was an insecure date asking me every two minutes if I was 'OK,' I'd rather have too much than not enough attention at a restaurant.

Outstanding food and plating.  2nd after Alinea, I want to have their plates.  The food is skillfully presented and displayed on great wares.  Every dish made me leave a pool of saliva on the tablecloth- I imagine I appeared somewhat like Odie.  There were dishes that had flavors new to my pallete- always a plus.  I am now a firm believer that Salsify is an up and coming trend.  It's difficult to have a flower  make a significant contribution to a dish- personal opinion.

The gnocchi.  I have a love-hell burning hatred for gnocchi.  To this day I never could figure out why I keep telling myself I like it.  I see it on menus- think it's a great idea- and am then always very very disappointed.  Why do I keep touching the hot grill?  I ordered the gnocchi and loved it.  Custom House is a shining example on how gnocchi should be made, taste, and have the fabled pillow-like texture of.

With it I split the special- 40+ oz bone in steak goodness.  I love ordering meat medium-rare plus or rare and the waiter smiling in response.  That's when you know you're in the right place.  The steak was very good.  Easily comparable to the tomahawk steak at Tramonto's, but I think Rick edges Custom House out.  Differences?  While Rick offers just a protein perfectly prepared on a platter Custom House offers 'sides' that accent the main protein.  There isn't enough to constitute as a full side, but provides additional depth in the dish.  Rick's may be more one dimensional, but steak for steak it is the best.  Regardless, I would still gladly re-order the special (If your date agrees to split it with you- they're a keeper).

If you have a second stomach, Custom House keeps an excellent pastry chef on call.  Can't go wrong with any of the dishes.  There is a good collection of dessert wines as well- so there's something for everyone.  I highly recommend the establishment.  If you have a few extra bucks to spare, and want to go to one of the best kept secrets in the city, call or go to opentable now.

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