Frontera Grill and Topolobampo
Tuesday, September 30, 2008 at 2:32PM Frontera Grill and Topolobampo
(break it down into syllables, you can do it) are Rick Bayless'
flagship restaurants in Chicago. It may be confusing at first as they
share the front door, they are two independent beasts with upscale
Mexican offerings. Thankfully, they both supply the bar section as
well.
The restaurant(s) close after lunch and reopen at 5 for dinner service. I went after seeing Wicked and got in line 60 (names, not raw people) deep at 4:40. Thankfully, as we all know, Chicago has the best weather in the country. Reservations are accepted but if you didn't plan your trip last week like everyone else- get in line and sprint to the bar. Don't bother with putting your name in just get to the bar area. The bar offers great drinks plus FULL menus. Where else can you enjoy over 30 tequilas and ceviche or duck tacos this far north?
The bartenders are very knowledgeable in the menu and make excellent
recommendations. They rightfully deserve the biggest tip I've left at
a bar in my life. If you're not seated at the actual bar there is a
waitstaff for surrounding tables.
The menu has a great number of offerings- unfortunately most mortals can't try everything they want in a single visit. This is a great opportunity to try things you may not ordinarily. For example, I hate sour cream. I'll mix 1 part sour cream to 5 parts horseradish on the side at times, but I really loathe the stuff. Full of calories and mutes other flavors. Rick and crew make their own sour cream. When God decided that 'There will be sour cream,' this is what He intended. It is nothing like that dairy aisle junk. The details in such small things make the dishes great.
Blue marlin ceviche- the best single bite of food in my life. I was actually able to tell Rick that at the 2008 NRA show and he smiled. I'm not going to even try to describe something like that in words. Go and try it, or stop by my place and I'll try to do it via interpretive dance. Needless to say the raw bar is outstanding.
Some people don't like Mexican food because it upsets their stomach or is too spicey. The dishes are a far cry from the bastard child cuisine most Americans are familiar with (Chipotle is NOT Mexican). Mexican isn't about heat. Like other genres it's about availability of resources and preservation. Tortilla chips were born so people could consume stale tortillas- because that would be the only thing available! This meant less food would go to waste etc et cetera. Most dishes are born out of necessity. Rick makes an excellent homage with upscale dishes. Wherever you end up sitting at 445 North Clark Street, you will be transported to a place far away from home.
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Frontera,
Rick Bayless,
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