It’s been one short year since the removal of the foie gras ban in Chicago. To celebrate arguably the single most important anniversary in existence, many restaurants have created unique menus for foie gras week. For me, there’s only one right choice when deciding where to celebrate, David Burke’s Primehouse at the James Hotel.

Have to remember this trip isn’t about the steak, it’s about the foie. It’s about spending my Saturday night going through an 11 part foie flight of heaven. And maybe Kobe beef sashimi. And maybe a cold seafood tower.

I arrive 20 minutes before my reservation, overly eager. Pace around the block a few times to kill time and build my appetite further. Only make it a few times before I cave and enter the restaurant early anyway—still seated immediately.

Even though I know what I’m ordering, I skim through the menu anyway, a mere formality. Bad mistake. There’s no way I can be here and just eat foie gras. It’s only proper to start with a cold course as well. After a brief discussion with my waiter, the order goes in for the Shellfish Maison, 6 jumbo shrimp, 2 east coast oysters, 2 west coast oysters, ¼ lb mussels, fresh crab, salmon tartare, and chilled calamari salad; followed the Kobe Beef Sashimi with Himalayan salt, mushroom chips, and truffle mayo; then the 11 foie courses to come out in a logical progression of light to heavy, in small groups.

The only missing component now is drinks, which I know nothing about. I take the waiter’s recommendation on a sparkling wine to pair with the shellfish course, and then wait for the professional, the sommelier to come and bail me out.

She arrives with the sparkling wine, already aware of my night’s goal. Asks for preferences. “I don’t have any. I’ll try anything. I’m submitting myself to your decision making.” She smiles, and not in the dollar signs as pupils kind of way. At this point, I know everything will be perfect.

With the sparkling wine, and shellfish course, are a series dipping sauces-- cocktail sauce with horseradish (finally one spicy enough for my taste), a red wine mignonette, a ginger dipping sauce, and then fennel ice. All are wonderful, even though the shrimp, which are the blank canvases of the course, are perfect as is. The fennel ice, the most unique of the group, plays wonderfully between the sharpness and temperature of the ice, and then the refreshing bite of fennel at the end.

Kobe Beef Sashimi.Next comes the signature Kobe Beef Sashimi. The Jap is thinly sliced, and presented on a pink Himalayan salt block, topped with mushroom chips, chives, and served with black truffle mayo and bread. I skip the bread for the good stuff. Could easily be consumed the same day wisdom teeth are pulled out—melt in mouth top quality beef. Not salty enough? Just rub the bite into the plate before consumption. After dispatching the beast, I realize there is still plenty of black truffle mayo still on the plate. Can’t let that go to waste, so I enjoy another bread course.

Finally, the first of the foie arrives. First round being the Foie Gras Mousse served atop prosciutto in a sea of melon gazpacho; the Cherry Glazed Foie Gras Torchon aside a cherry walnut confit; as well as the Lobster and Foie Gras Roll. I start with what I plan to like the least, and what is the most easily consumed—the Lobster and Foie Gras Roll. Generally, I greatly dislike lobster rolls. Not a big mayo fan, and the combination of heavy with heavy turns me off. This Gresh-ian version, I like. Would prefer less bread, but the lobster is perfectly cooked, mayo not overbearing, and foie is excellent as it should be.

Next I try the mousse, a preparation I am hesitant with. I find that foie gras mousses are [often] attempts by restaurants to project a false image of luxury, and offer an expensive ingredient in a ‘stretched-out’ way, that is often flavorless and displeasing. This is the first, and only known exception. The light texture adds contrast to the dish, and if any heavier, would be a difficult mountain to climb. It also adds to the beautiful presentation of the dish, as the melon gazpacho, which I’d like an unadulterated bowl of someday, is poured table-side.

I end the grouping with the torchon, which is a great KISS reminder, keep it simple stupid. The dish is simple, and shows off the foie’s natural flavor.

Now, a slightly heavier and warm grouping arrives. A Chicago Style “Foie Gras Dog” with heirloom tomatoes, mango relish, and homemade sport peppers; Mini Deep Dish Foie Gras Pizza with spinach, mushrooms, mozzarella and of course, foie gras; Surfing Duck Foie Gras served atop marinated daikon, lobster, and finished with macadamia nut oil; then Seared Foie Gras and Texas Corn served with cornbread and Texas BBQ sauce.

Surfing Duck Foie Gras. Get it?I adore the concept of the Chicago tributes. The deep dish is fun to eat, and the dog has good reason to change what we know as a Chicago hot dog. The surfing duck foie gras is the perfect bite of food. The daikon is flavorful, slightly crunchy; lobster perfectly cooked; and the seared foie, my favorite foie preparation, just melts. After seeing the dish, I get the name, and love it. Hope everyone else is using their noggins.

This leaves the Texas tribute as last dish standing, for now. The creamed corn is awesome. The corn is grilled first, adding a great depth of flavor, and appreciated sweetness.

At this point in the evening, I’ve been around for a while and have been watching all the tables around me order great food as well. Problem with this, is I’ve developed steak envy. How can I be at Primehouse and not get a steak? It’s insane. I order the Chicago Magazine 2008 Best Dry Aged Steak, the 55 Day Aged Ribeye, bone-in, 20 oz. The reserve cut is aged in the Himalayan salt room, and sells itself. Another dish in queue, but gets put ahead the final dishes, to maintain progression integrity. Outstanding.

Foie Gras Pierogies with Ramp Kraut.Next comes the Foie Gras Pierogies made with grandma’s dough, served with ramp kraut; Chicken Fried Foie served with hush puppies atop black eye peas, and a side of pickled okra; and then [IPA] beer Fried Foie over north woods slaw, and tarter sauce.

This is the point in the meal where, I am loving the regionality of the cuisine. I love how I’m getting local tributes, then eating Texas BBQ, devouring daikon, savoring pierogies (thank God), then going south of the Mason-Dixon. Like Chef Gresh, my family and I are very Polish, and I pray that the next person to get married gets these pierogies for the reception. That’s all I’m saying.

The chicken fried foie takes me back to when I found out in Virginia what real chicken fried food tasted like. It’s a real delicacy. The hush puppies remind me of dining out in South Carolina by the Atlantic with my grandparents, and the pickled okra is just like John’s, but with crème fraiche.

The beer fried foie is almost as good as the chicken fried, but I’m a bit biased in that comparison. The slaw is great, and I’m again shocked that fried foie isn’t lethal.

Finally, my steak craving is cured. 55 Day Aged Ribeye is served with truffle asiago fries. Wasn’t expecting the starch. For the record, I’ve had many great steaks from many great venues. Custom House, Morton’s, Sullivan’s, Rick Tramonto’s Steakhouse—I’ve done a ton. I thought I knew a few things about great steak, but this one schooled me. After I go through one of those word books, I’ll come back and write how I really feel.

Foie Gras Pot De Crème.The final foie arrives, Foie Gras Pot De Crème with Robert Mondavi Moscatto gelee, and grilled California peaches. I hear this is the best dish of the bunch. Bold words to hear after tasting every other dish. Bold words, but true words. I never thought foie could be a perfect dessert. The crème is unbelievable; the gelee on top adds pleasant texture, and accompanying flavor. Highly addictive, especially when served with sweet, grilled peaches.

Now, I’m by no means stuffed, but it’s hard to figure out where to go from here. Could order a dessert, but may be disastrous following up the last act. After seeing the word ‘rhubarb,’ I’m easily talked into ordering another course.

As I finish the rhubarb crisp, I look around the room, thinking back of all the night’s dishes. The once bustling room is now only filled with quiet conversation. My once awake date is now passed out from the seven servings of wine, and I think, “It would suck to be an Iron Chef and battle Rick with foie on national television.” I realize, that it’s a meal that I will never forget.

Update on Tuesday, June 16, 2009 at 11:25PM by Stash

This weekend I'll put up additional pictures in an album, and not ruin the touch ups (won't have access 'till I'm back in Chicago).  Until then, check out the date link to see pictures of every dish, and this bisection of the foie dessert course.