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Wednesday
Dec152010

Top 10 of '10

 Quality food journalism would be at a loss if not for end of the year lists.  Below are the top things I ate across the country, but mostly in Chicago, in no particular order.  The focus is on dishes of the year, not a dish that is always offered that I just happened to eat during 2010 (eg a steak at Primehouse).  The other rule is that every restaurant only gets one spot, otherwise this post would be dominated by various Alinea-spawns.  Here's the one list Longman and Eagle isn't on:

Formerly Chaise Lounge, The Southern is a tribute to Chef Cary Taylor's roots.  While the Johnny Cakes are a standout dish, the best thing to do is order the fried chicken dinner for a group.  The chicken is soaked in buttermilk for days, then beautifully fried and accompanied with house made buttermilk biscuits, creamy coleslaw, potato salad, tasso gravy, green beans, and hot sauce.  Individual diners can also dig in solo on Wednesday nights, but there's no guarantee that it won't be sold out.

From The Southern's (fb) Wall Photos

I don't have a sweet tooth, but I crave this slice of this two layer carrot cake that feeds six.  Despite it's enormity, the cake is moist, with wonderful textural notes of shredded carrot.  The cream cheese frosting is barely sweetened, and rounds out each bite as it really is, the icing on the cake.

  • XmarX (Chicago) - Deep Fried Pork Sammich

XmarX is the best of Chicago underground dining.  Their waffle con carne was a top contender, but the deep fried pork sandwich with quail egg, sambal, kimchi, brioche, and fried quail egg was the best dish of their 'Best Of' menu.  The goose fat chips didn't hurt either.  If Michelin star chef sandwich shops are really going to take off, they need this sandwich.

  • Mado (Chicago) - Liver Cabbage Roll

When the Levitts were running the place, Mado was not just my favorite nose to tail restaurant, but a favorite across all categories.  I hope their tradition of monthly Sunday family dinners continues at The Butcher and Larder, so the public can once again indulge in their pork liver cabbage rolls.  And Allie's desserts.  I'm not sure if anyone enjoyed the dish as much as the Poles in attendance, but this was a dish to convert liver haters with it's smooth texture missing all hints of iron, and excellent grain mustard accompaniment. 

  • Blackbird (Chicago) - Mangalitsa Pork Choucroute of Blood Sausage, Braised Rib and Bacon

January 2010 was all about celebrating the Mangalitsa in Chicago.  Many restaurants were offering tastings, but Blackbird's 10 course tasting by Chef Mike Sheerin was the best of the bunch.  Midway through, diners got his choucroute of blood sausage, braised rib and bacon, easily the best dish of the night.  I thought--how could the testa (which my dining companion thought was short for testicles) tortellini and whipped lardo with winter radishes possibly be followed up?  This dish did it by paying homage to various cuts of the divine beast with an assortment of textures and top porcine flavors.

From http://blackbirdrestaurant.blogspot.com

During my degustation at Townhouse, Chef John Shields sent out an experimental snack; the pale, anemic looking 'empanada' pictured below.  This deceptive dish is far from simple.  

The "crust" is made from candy floss and lined with lardo. With a protective layer of fat we are able to fill the inside with liquid contents.... crispy pork tail, pickled chile, fried corn and goat cheese cream.

The best single bite of food of my life to date, and of 2010.  I recommend everyone make the trek to the far southwest corner of Virginia for this and the entire degustation, because having to choose between chef Shields' dishes is torture.

From http://townhouseblog.blogspot.com/ 

Every year, Green City Market's Annual Harvest Celebration  displays the best uses of market ingredients.  Chef Pat Sheerin had the best dish of the celebration with his braised beef navel stuffed with kielbasa.  First it was cooked sous-vide off site for 12 hours, then finished on the grill for hungry GCM supporters.  The brussels sprouts and broccoli gave the rich dish an excellent bright finish.

Photo by Eric Craig Studios.

  • Cafe Luck (Santa Barbara) - Foie Gras Du Jour

Walking into Cafe Luck, I was immediately sold on the concept of having a daily foie gras special.  I'm surprised other restaurants aren't doing it.  Nobody cares about a soup of the day anymore.  People want 365 preparations of foie gras.  My foie gras at the time was seared over a light salad with a seasonal blueberry compote, and I can't wait to see what the next preparation will be.

  • Eve (Chicago) - Fried Oysters over Bacon Waffle

I recently had the pleasure of meeting Chef Troy Graves of Eve and discovering his eclectic food at Eve in River North.  The meal pulled from his various experiences in Texas, and even included a trip to Morocco for a very fragrant lamb meatball.  While the lobster deviled egg, which they're known for, was excellent, the best dish of the night was the buttermilk fried oysters over a tasso waffle with a pickled okra remoulade.  Outstanding combination of fried, briney, and porcine flavors.

I don't know why this dish didn't sell, but I am eternally thankful to chef Dan Tucker for making this deceased dish by [in advance] request.  The three day preparation of confit duck, fried crispy skin, sweet corn arepa, lime crema, cilantro and other stuff I can’t do justice, create this destination worthy dish.    This dish showed me there is more to Sushi Samba than spicy tuna rolls, meat on sticks, and short skirts.  Order the omakase and prepare to be impressed.

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Reader Comments (5)

Agree 100% on the duck skin ragout at Sushi Samba. That was probably the single best thing I've eaten in 2010.

December 15, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterVicki

There isn't an official order, but I did save the best for last :D

December 15, 2010 | Registered CommenterStash

This list makes me giddy. And hungry. So much delicious food out there, just waiting to be discovered. Glad to have shared a few of your top dining experiences! I am excited to see what spectacular dining will come our way in 2011.

December 17, 2010 | Unregistered CommenterTatiana

I have been thinking about you lately...then I come over here and its all changed! A good change...so what have you been cooking?

Going to catch up over here!

Happy New Year! Hope your holidays were wonderful!

January 1, 2011 | Unregistered CommenterChef E

You wee in Santa Barbara and Ventura and you didn't call me?? Wassup? I went to college in Santa Barbara (Brooks) and danced my butt off in Ventura. GREG

January 16, 2011 | Unregistered Commentersippitysup

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