Sounds like...

I woke up this morning with a headache and a smile as seemingly distant memories of the previous night flooded back to my mind.  It was a night of rustic, locally-inspired dishes paired with great wine, great wine, and even better company.  All food came from a morning trip to one of the greatest farmer's markets in the country, Green City Market, and new premier local butcher, The Butcher and Larder. 

The evening started out with pork rillettes and a terrine of beef spotted with hidden treasures of liver accompanied by a savory blueberry mostarda.  The rich charcuterie was washed down with my favorite beer for such dishes, Monks Cafe Flemish Sour Red Ale.  Next, was a follow up salad course worthy of its own post, micro greens tossed with fresh shallots, wild mushroom conservas; tossed with a vinaigrette of the leftover mushroom oil, sherry vinegar, capers, dijon mustard, crack of pepper, and seasoned with truffle salt.  The entree was a highlight of the night as it was the first time anyone could notice the music that had been looping for the previous few hours; a whole chicken braised in a ragout of pork belly and trotters.  But my proudest achievement was dessert, scratch profiteroles.  

A classic English dessert stolen from the French, profiteroles are ice cream filled choux pastries topped with hot fudge or chocolate sauce.  The pâte à choux is a light pastry dough without a raising agent, but uses steam to puff up.  When fried, the dough transforms into beignets, when baked it becomes a light puff of delight.

The first step of making profiteroles is to make ice cream.  I won't judge anyone that buys ice cream to fill the puffs, but I challenge everyone to make their own from quality cream and milk bought from local farmers.  Using generic dairy products is a waste of the effort put into the process.  Begin by slowly boiling a heaping cup and a half of whole milk with two cups of heavy cream and vanilla.  While the cream mixture comes comes to temperature, gently whisk 5 egg yolks with 3/4 cup of granulated sugar.  When the cream comes to a boil, pour it over the eggs while vigoursly whisking to prevent curdling.  Put back on a low heat, and cook until the cream coats the back of a spoon.  Pour the mixture through a strainer to catch any cooked eggs.  No one wants scrambled eggs in their ice cream.

Next chill the cream mixture, then churn in an ice cream machine.  Be sure to follow all instructions on the maker.  The machine should be on and churning before any cream is poured in, otherwise it will immediately freeze to the bowl and the machine will not be able to function.

The ice cream machine should only be filled half-way, as the ice cream will double in volume during the churning process, which can take 20-30 minutes.  At that time, pour the ice cream in another container and freeze for at least two hours, preferably more, to ripen.

While the ice cream is ripening, make the pâte à choux.  Melt 8 tablespoons of diced butter in a heaping cup of water in a pan over the stove.  When the water comes to a boil, remove from heat and immediately stir in a pinch of salt, sugar, and a cup of flour.  Return the mixture to heat and beat with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together and no longer sticks to the cooking vessel.

Next, beat in 5 eggs, one at a time, until the mixture glistens and reluctantly drops from a spoon.  Cover and cool.  Once the mixture has cooled, fill a pastry bag, or any plastic sandwich bag with a cut corner, and pipe small balls on a lined baking tray.  Bake in a preheated 425Dg oven for 20-25 minutes, until golden in color.  Do not be tempted to open the oven door at anytime during this as the puffs will collapse.  When done, place on a wire rack to cool.

The final component is the chocolate sauce.  I highly recommend my mom's Kaluha Hot Fudge recipe, but won't be offended if you opt for a more classic choice.  When ready, slice the profiteroles in half and transform them into mini vanilla ice cream sandwichs.  Drown them in chocolate sauce and serve immediately.  It should be messy, but not because the ice cream melted on your watch.  Each bite should be full of the light and sweet pastry, filled with the cold, rich and creamy vanilla ice cream, and warmed by the spiked chocolate lava trying to remove all traces of white on the plate.  

Comments

[Lulu]

I thought the fruit and acidity of the Billecart-Salmon Rose Champagne went really well with the main course - it really cut through the fat but didn't overpower. It went have been just as great with the profiteroles and ice-cream...had we had any left! It was all wonderful, including the second dessert of coconut cookies. Thank you for a great dinner and I completely agree about the company! Cheers.

[Tatiana]

Wow. Those look amazing. Mad props to you for attempting and succeeding. Very impressive.

[Stash]

I won't lie I made them once many years ago in high school, so I had a lot of confidence from that experience =P

Honestly I was most concerned about my absolute refusal to temper the eggs, but the strainer saved the day. It's important to note that seasoning the ice cream is the same as a meaty terrine, as the flavor degrades as it chills, which I think is pretty cool.

[Chef E]

kudos for this, I have almost given up on attempting anything anymore. So I will come over here to watch your wonderful deeds :) Wish we had virtual tasting on here...